Hot Tub Assembly Tips

 

The main key to wooden hot tubs holding water is accurate assembly. While the wood will swell to seal up any small gap, it can only do so much. If you have assembled the tub perfectly then there should be almost no leaking when you add water and any minor seeping will stop within a few hours. If you have followed the instructions properly and there is some initial leaking then you can expect this to stop within 48 hours.

 

Read these tips in conjunction with the assembly instructions.

 

  1. Check the kit for all components before you begin the build. There is nothing worse than finding that you are missing a part when you are halfway through.

  2. Get a good quality load strap that is long enough to go around the tub.

  3. Watch some YouTube videos on hot tub assembly. Each product will be slightly different but the basic principles and build process will be similar.

  4. Use some carpet or similar between the wood and the load strap buckle and a wood block to take the blow when using a hammer/mallet.

  5. Ensure you have a flat surface for the tub to sit on and a flat surface to build it on.

  6. The wood should be dry before you begin and do not try to build it in the rain. If the wood is wet, or has been wet, then contact us to discuss how to proceed.

  7. To get the floor joints tight you can lay them out and use a load strap around the whole floor. You will need to remove the boards holding the segments together before fixing the bearers, these boards are only there for keeping the floorboards in the correct order during transport. The floor may want to buckle as you tighten the load straps so use the bearers to apply weight down and keep them straight and flat.

  8. When you add the staves you need to leave a 10-15mm gap between the inside of the stave rebate and the edge of the floor. If the stave rebate is 20mm then scribe a line around the edge of the floor that is 10mm from the edge. You then have a good guide for fitting the staves onto the floor. You can also scribe another line that is 20mm from the edge to use later as you tap the staves into their final position.

  9. The staves need to be firmly together and evenly onto the floor as you add them around the edge of the floor.

  10. Take you time cutting the last stave to get a good fit.

  11. Once all the staves are in position use a load strap around the staves at floor level to apply some tension and then start knocking the staves onto the floor. Go around and tap each stave once, then tighten the load strap some more and repeat until the staves will not go any further on. If you scribed a line 20mm from the edge of the floor then use this as a guide to get the staves evenly onto the floor.

  12. Work out the heights of the straps and use small nails or screws as a guide to rest the straps on. One nail/screw every 8 staves is a good number.

  13. Use an anti seize lubricant on the stainless nuts and bolts as it will otherwise bind when you try and get them tight.

  14. Use the load strap to help apply tension as you fit each strap.

  15. Finish the top of the staves with a router or sandpaper to give a nice chamfered look.

Do not light the fire in the heater while the tub is empty. The tub must be full of water before lighting or it will cause damage to the heater.

We ship anywhere within New Zealand

Barrel Cabins & Sleepouts | info@curvedconstructions.co.nz | 0800 GO CURVED (0800 46 2878)

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